I
love Bombay.
Granted,
it's easier to love, when one knows there is a butler waiting to draw your
herb-infused bath at the end of a busy day...
I've
been getting up early, tearing myself away from 800 thread count sheets and
goose down comfort, to watch the sunrise over the harbour as I do a few
exercises in the room before going down for an energetic swim in the beautiful
outdoor pool, listening to the birds wake up in downtown Colaba. Then a quick
shower and breakfast in the Sea Lounge and back to the room to sketch a bit
outside on my private terrace.
Then
the day can begin.
Yesterday,
I had an ambitious plan. I left the hotel at 10am and began walking. I love
walking in new places. It's such a great way to see the place and get a feel
for the pulse of the city and the spirit of the people. I quickly got the
groove of how to walk in the city (always in the road, never on the sidewalk,
but not more than six inches into the road, or you're done for). When crossing
the road, always stay right behind a fat lady in a sari (there's always one
around) as cars don't seem to like hitting fat ladies in saris (too much
trouble).
I
began walking north, past so much Victorian splendor, it's easy to get jaded.
The British certainly left their mark on this city. The architecture is
spectacular. I took loads of photos as I went. I walked past Victoria Terminus,
where I arrived the previous day. (Oh, and by the way, for those of you
fact-checking [Jorge], I didn't proof yesterday's email and was not even close
with the true name of the station, sorry).
I
walked up through Crawford market and through several of the bazaar areas, such
as Chor Bazar, (thieves' market) and so on. My goal was in Null Bazar, which
happens to be the lunghi market. I can't tell you my destination because it
involves a special gift for Dean, who is putting up with a very spoiled
Dalmatian for nearly three months. Suffice it to say, I was not shipping for
lunghis.
From
Null Bazar, I continued north through some quite dirty areas and through
several slums, seeing how everyday life goes on for probably a majority of
people on this earth. Fascinating.
My
eventual destination was the Mahalukshmi Dhobi Ghats. They say that if you ever
have laundry done in Bombay, it is likely done here. This place is amazing.
Acres of concrete cubicles with one Dhobi in each square, washing kilo after
kilo of dirty laundry. It's the busiest place you can imagine. Then the laundry
gets hung out to dry on giant lines hanging above the ghats. It really is quite
beautiful.
From
there, I walked toward the sea, and across a thin causeway, lined with beggars
to the famous Haji Ali Mosque. I had been there before, but I is spectacular
enough to go again and again. From there, I walked to the Mahalukshmi Temple,
also on the seafront, and had myself blessed by a Hindu priest. The place was
packed as it was a Hindu festival day. Although I think it is always packed.
Lakshmi is the goddess of wealth and Mumbaikars like wealth.
Eventually
I walked back to the Dhobi ghats and took the local train back to Churchgate
Station, for an easy half hour walk back to the hotel. In all, I had been
walking for nearly six hours. My feet were aching, but it was a great day. But
boy was I filthy. I went to the gym, did a workout and 30 minute of intense
cardio on the rowing machine, then took a ten minute shower with soap AND
shampoo AND shower gel, and still the towel was filthy when I dried myself.
Wow.
Today,
a bit less walking. I walked back to Churchgate Station and took the local
train up to Bandra, the tiny suburb up north, where many of the Bollywood stars
live. I walked around up there for two hours and really enjoyed it. I'd never
been there and it is a completely different side of Bombay life. Then back for
some quality time by the pool.
Dinner
this evening with my friends Alok and Vikram.
P.S.
I have gone out of my way to make Gary feel comfortable on his return to my London Apartment by adapting it to the style that he has got accustomed too in the past few weeks (i.e. I had my shower and toilet removed and hidden the toilet paper and imported some lizards) but now he writes that he is getting back to a more pretentious (P Town) style and expects me to arrange the towels just so:-
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